You will need:

1000 yds America’s Best 100% polyester thread #10 (white) and size 7 steel crochet hook (1.65 mm)
1 ball black #10 crochet thread & small amount of ecru crochet thread (1/4 ball?)

http://www.jpfun.com/patterns/free/ornaments/f103010_starnstar.shtml
Go here for the star pattern….use black #10 thread, then add these following rows. This is the back of the suit.
ch21, 2 tr in lp, ch4, 2tr in same lp, *ch17, 2tr in lp, h4, 2 tr in same lp* repeat 3x more. Join to 4th ch of ch21. cut thread.
join contrast thread in same sp as ending black. ch1, *17 sc in next 17 ch, sc in next 2tr, ch4, 2sc in next 2 tr* repeat around. join, ch2.
7 dc in next 7 sc, ch4, sk 1, 8 dc in next 8 sc, sk 4 sc, 3dc in lp, ch4, 3dc in same lp, *sk 4 sc, 8 dc in next 8 sc, ch4, sk 1, 8 dc in next 8 sc, sk 4 sc, 3dc in lp, ch4, 3dc in same lp* repeat around. join. cut thread.
switch to black. sc in every st around, 2dc, ch2, 2dc(shell) in every ch4 sp. join, cut thread.
Switch to white (main color of suit) and dc around, 1 dc in shells on sides, shell in shells at points. join, ch2.
dc around, shell in shells, join, ch2.
repeat this round 4x more, cut thread.
This is the back piece of the swimsuit. The swimsuit is made in several pieces, and then joined together.
The Bodice: ch81, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc across, ch2, turn. repeat 2x.
Row 4: *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc* repeat 18x. ch2, turn. This only covers about half of the first 3 rows. Ignore this detail, and follow as stated. All shall be revealed in time.
Row 5: *2 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc* repeat across, ch2, turn.
Row 6-12: dc across, ch2, turn.
Row 13: 18 dc, inv dec, 14 dc, inv dec, 14 dc, inv dec, 19 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 14: 18 dc, inv dec, 13 dc, inv dec, 13 dc, inv dec, 18 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 15: 17 dc, inv dec, 12 dc, inv dec, 12 dc, inv dec, 18 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 16: 17 dc, inv dec, 11 dc, inv dec, 11 dc, inv dec, 16 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 17: 16 dc, inv dec, 10 dc, inv dec, 10 dc, inv dec, 15 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 18: 15 dc, inv dec, 9 dc, inv dec, 9 dc, inv dec, 16 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 19: 1dc, inv dec, 4dc, ch4, sk9, 2dc, ch4, sk5, 2dc, ch4, sk9, 2dc, ch2, sk5, 4dc, inv dec, 2dc, ch2, turn.
Row 20: 17dc, inv dec, 3dc, inv dec, inv dec, inv dec, 7dc, ch2, turn.
Row 21: 1dc, inv dec, 2dc, inv dec, inv dec, dc, ch5, sk10, 1dc, inv dec, 5dc, ch2, turn.
Row 22: 2dc, inv dec, dc, inv dec, 3dc, inv dec, 3dc, inv dec, 2dc, ch2, turn.
Row 23: 2dc, ch5, sk8, 3dc, ch2, turn.
Row 24: 1dc, inv dec, 5 dc in loop, 2 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 25-49: dc across, ch2, turn.
This is the part of the construction that makes the ordinary, linear part of my brain scream in agony. This may get wonky in your own head. Bear with me. It will eventually make sense.
Row 50: inv dec, 1dc, inv dec, 1dc, ch2, turn.
Row 51: inv dec, 2 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 52: 2 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 53: 2dc, ch2, 2dc in 2nd dc, 1 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 54: shell in shell, dc in dc, ch2, turn.
Row 55-96: repeat Row 54.
Row 97: 2dc in next 2 dc, 1dc in ch2 sp, 2dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc, ch2, turn. (7 dc)
Row 98: repeat row 97, cut thread.
For other side of bust, sk 4dc, join thread, follow from Row 4 of pattern.
For center pineapple: join thread in Row 17L(left), ch21, join in Row 17R (right), ch2,
join to Row 16R, dc across to Row 16L, ch2,
join in row 15L, 8 dc, ch3, sk2, 9 dc, join to Row 15R, ch 2,
join in Row 14R, 7dc, sk1, 9tr in ch3 lp, sk1, 7dc, join in Row14L, ch2,
join in Row 13L, ch3, sk2, sc, ch3, sk2, sc in dc, ch2, *dc in next dc, ch1* 8x, dc, ch2, sc in dc, ch3, sk2, sc, ch1, join in Row 13R, ch2,
join in Row 12R, ch4, sc in lp, ch4, sc in lp, ch2, sc in lp, ch2, *sc between dcs, ch1*, 7x, sc in sp, ch2, sc in lp, ch2, sc in lp, ch4, sc in lp, join in Row 12L, ch2,
join in Row 11L, repeat previous row 4x more, Join as appropriate in the same (opposite) row.
Row 7L, ch4, *sc between dcs, ch1*, 6x, sc in sp, ch4, join in Row7R, ch4,
*sc between dcs, ch1*, 5x, sc in sp, ch4, join in 6L,
*sc between dcs, ch1*, 4x, sc in sp, ch4, join in 6R,
*sc between dcs, ch1*, 3x, sc in sp, ch3, join in 5L,
*sc between dcs, ch1*, 2x, sc in sp, ch3, join in 5R,
sc between dcs, ch1, sc in sp, ch4, join in 4L,
ch2, join in Row 3 of bust, ch2, sc in sc, ch2,  sk2, join in Row 3, cut  thread.
Pineapple finished (finally!)
Flip bust over to foundation row.
For the front:
Row1: dc between dcs across, ch2, turn.
Row2: ch2, (dc, ch1,dc[V]) in between next 2 dcs, *3dc, (dc, ch1,dc [V]) in between next 2 dcs* across, ch4, turn.
Row3: *2dc, ch1, 2dc (shell), ch3* in V, sk3, repeat across, dc in last dc, ch4, turn.
Rows 4-10: *shell in shell, ch3* repeat across, dc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch4, turn.
Rows 11-12: *shell in shell, ch2* repeat across, dc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch4, turn.
Row 13: *shell in shell, 0 ch* repeat across, dc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch4, turn.
Row 14: *V in shell, ch1* repeat across, dc in 2nd ch of ch4, cut thread.

For the panty:
Ch77, dc in 3rd ch from hook,
dc across every row, invisible decrease (yo, insert in 1st dc, yo, draw up a lp, insert in next dc, yo, draw up another lp, yo, pull thru 3 lps on hk, yo, pull thru remaining lps) in center, @20 and @4 dcs from each edge in every row, ending when piece is 30 sts wide or 18 rows long, whichever comes later. It is my hope that both happen at the same time.
Rows 19-20: decrease @ 4th st from each end twice more, resulting in 26 dcs across.
Row 21-31: dc across, ch2, turn.
Row 32: 2dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat across, ch2 turn
Row 33: dc across, ch2, turn
Rows 34, 36, 38: repeat Row 32
Rows 35, 37, 39: Repeat Row 33
Row 40: 21dc, inv dec, 21dc, ch2, turn
Row 41:  3dc, 2dc in next dc, *4 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 3x, 5dc, inv dec, *4 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 4x, dc, ch2, turn
Row 42: dc across, inv dec in inv dec, ch2, turn
Row 43: 3dc, 2dc in next dc, *4 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 3x, 2dc, inv dec, 2dc, 2dc in next dc, 2dc,  *4 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 3x, 5dc, ch2, turn
Row 44: dc across, inv dec in inv dec, ch2, turn
Row 45:  2dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 5x, dc, inv dec, dc, 2dc in next dc,  *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 5x, 3dc, ch2, turn
Row 46: dc across, inv dec in inv dec, ch2, turn
Row 47:  29 dc, inv dec, 30 dc, ch2, turn
Row 48:  *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 6x, 3dc, inv dec, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 6x, 4dc, ch2, turn
Row 49: dc across, inv dec in inv dec, ch2, turn
Row 50:  2dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 7x, dc, inv dec, dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 7x, 4dc, ch2, turn
Row 51: dc across, inv dec in inv dec, ch2, turn
Row 52:  2dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 9x, inv dec, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 9x, 4dc, ch2, turn
Row 53: dc across, inv dec in inv dec, ch2, turn
Row 54:  2dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 11x, dc, inv dec, dc, 2dc in next dc, *3 dc, 2 dc in next  dc* repeat 11x, 4dc, ch2, turn
Row 55-57: dc across, ch2, turn
Row 58: dc across, ch4, turn.
At this point I found it helpful to join my thread at the side of the panty, (on both front and back) and then ch100. I did this 4 times, to make a more effective “tie” for the very high “cut” of the panty. It makes it fit me better. If you find this to be helpful, or you want the more “tied” look, go for it. If your body is comfortable with a high hip line, you don’t have to add this detail.

Straps, side:
join thread in side of Row 1 of bust. dc in same st, 2 dc in side of next st, 2 dc in side of next st. this makes Row 1 of strap, and both are to be identical.
Rows  2-3: dc across, ch2, turn.
Row 4: inv dec, 1dc, inv dec, 1dc, ch2, turn.
Row 5: inv dec, 2 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 6: 2 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 7: 2dc, ch2, 2dc in 2nd dc, 1 dc, ch2, turn.
Row 8: shell in shell, dc in dc, ch2, turn.
Row 9-16: repeat Row 8.
Row 17: 2dc in next 2 dc, 1dc in ch2 sp, 2dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc, ch2, turn. (7 dc)
Row 18: repeat row 17, cut thread.
Almost there! Really, I swear. The only things left to do are to connect all the pieces. Lay everything out, as flat as possible, and place the front down. Stretch the straps over the back, crossing them in the center, and laying them flat. Lay the panty out, front downwards, and then lay the decorative star doily onto the pile, tucking it into the V of the crossed straps. Join the base of the 5-sided star doily to the top of the back of panty with standard sc. After this point, it’s entirely up to you, as to how you wish to join the pieces together. I reccommend sc on the same side as the sc for the doily, for each strap connection to the panty. The long straps that come from the top of the bust are to be joined to the side of the front on the panty. Take care not to twist the straps. The method I used for the joining of the straps to the body of the suit is this: sc on one piece, ch4, sc on other piece, ch5, sc back on the first piece, repeat. The short straps go from the bust to the back of the panty. This design is extremely customizable, and size adjustable.
Lining: lay the bust out on the stretchy liner material, such as the same material from the other swimsuit, and cut out the liner, covering the holes in the bust. This is crucial, as boobs float, and this can expose the nipple area if it’s not covered. (I found this out the hard way, while pool-testing this suit.) Cut the panty liner area out the same way, before crocheting the whole thing together, and then sew it onto the panty once it’s crocheted together.

I will add pictures to this page eventually, but I have to re-line the suit, and then I can take pictures. I found out from a friend of mine that Wal-Mart is carrying a similar version of this suit this year (2010), and so I felt the need to make a more unique swimsuit, which I titled Pineapple Filet Swimsuit. Both the swimsuits posted are pool-tested, and can be used for beachwear as well. I have a real issue with wearing bikinis, (don’t ask why, it’s just a personal thing) so I have created my own poolworthy swimsuits. They are made with polyester thread, which doesn’t soak up water like cotton yarn, and it doesn’t stretch very much.